Amalfi Coast Guide: How to Drive It, Where to Stay and When to Go
Driving the Amalfi Coast was on our travel bucket list, so we spent four nights in Positano in late September and a day on the coast road in a 1966 Fiat 500 with 17 horsepower. The coast itself is a 50-kilometer stretch south of Naples with cliffside lemon groves, colorful towns and hairpin turns over 100-foot drops. This guide covers everything you need to plan it, including the parts we did not film: which town to stay in, how to get there from Naples, ferries vs. buses vs. driving, the Path of the Gods, the best beaches and a day on Capri. Updated for 2026.
why go
Why the Amalfi Coast
Why we loved it. It has everything we want from a famous drive: coastal scenery, charming towns and an iconic little car that could not be more Italian. We got honks, waves and shouts of "bravo" all day, mostly for Pepper riding along.
What it is not. Cheap, flat or quiet in summer. Positano is mostly stairs, July and August bring traffic jams, full buses and €80+ beach loungers, and many hotels and ferries shut down for the winter.
what to do
Things to do on the Amalfi Coast
By boatSee the coast from the water
The best views of the Amalfi Coast are from the sea. Ride the ferry between Positano and Amalfi, or hire a private boat for a day with swim stops at coves you cannot reach by road.
HikeWalk the Path of the Gods
The Sentiero degli Dei runs high above the sea from Bomerano (Agerola) to Nocelle, roughly 6 to 8 km and 2 to 4 hours one way. It is free and moderate, with some cliff-edge exposure. Take the SITA bus from Amalfi to Bomerano, then finish in Nocelle and either walk the 1,700-odd steps down to Positano or catch the local bus.
RavelloThe gardens of Ravello
Ravello sits about 350 meters above Amalfi. Villa Cimbrone’s Terrace of Infinity, lined with marble busts over the sea, is one of the great views in Italy, and Villa Rufolo’s gardens host the Ravello Festival concerts in summer. Both charge a small entry fee. We drove up in the Fiat; our 17 horsepower strained the whole way.
AmalfiAmalfi town and Atrani
Amalfi’s cathedral is free to enter (the Cloister of Paradise costs a few euros), and it is quietest before 10 a.m. Then walk about five minutes through the tunnel to Atrani, one of the smallest towns in Italy, with a little beach and a piazza for an aperitivo.
Day tripCapri for the day
Ferries run from Positano (about 40 to 50 minutes) and Amalfi from roughly €21 to €29 each way in season. Book ahead in summer, take an early boat, and pair the Blue Grotto (weather permitting) with a ride up to Anacapri.
GrottoThe Emerald Grotto
A sea cave near Conca dei Marini where light turns the water bright green. You go in by rowboat; it is a short stop, best in late morning when the light is strongest.
DriveDrive it in a vintage Fiat 500
Our bucket-list day: a 1966 Fiat 500 rented in Sorrento, with 17 horsepower (a riding lawn mower has about 18), no seat belts and a tricky gearbox. Getting out of Sorrento was the hardest part. Would do again, but read the driving section first.
EatLemons, seafood and the busy-restaurant rule
Order scialatielli ai frutti di mare, anything with local lemons, and a delizia al limone for dessert. Our rule everywhere: wherever we can park, we eat, and we pick the busy place. On the drive that meant waiting for marinated anchovies and a seafood risotto that was worth every minute.
should you drive?
Driving the Amalfi Coast
Honest take: driving the Amalfi Coast is challenging and not for everybody. We love to drive, which is exactly why it was a bucket-list item for us. If narrow cliff roads stress you out, use ferries and buses: you will see just as much, and nobody has to find parking.
The roadNarrow, busy and spectacular
The SS163 Amalfitana winds from Positano to Vietri sul Mare. In many places it is about as wide as one bus, and the big SITA buses take the whole lane on hairpin turns, so expect to reverse and wait. Late September was perfect for us; the local who rented us the Fiat said late September to early October is his favorite time to drive it.
The rulesOdd-even license plates
On busy dates, non-resident cars may only use the SS163 between 10 a.m. and 6 p.m. on days matching the last digit of their plate (odd days for odd plates, even days for even). In 2026 it covers spring holiday weeks, summer weekends and every day in August and September. Scooters and motorcycles are exempt, hotel guests only for arrival and departure, and fines start at about €80. Dates change every year, so check the current ordinance.
ParkingPlan it before you go
Garages in Positano run about €5 to €10 an hour, or €30 to €60 a day, and fill by mid-morning in July and August. Ask your hotel about parking before you book.
Better wheelsSmall, vintage or two-wheeled
If you do drive, go small. A scooter is the easiest option: exempt from the plate rule and far easier to park. Or rent a car only for a day, as we did, instead of for your whole stay.
beach days
The best Amalfi Coast beaches
Most beaches here are small and pebbly, split between paid beach clubs (lidos) and a free public strip. Lounger prices range from about €15 to over €80 a person per day, highest in Positano in August.
PositanoSpiaggia Grande
The main beach under the famous view. Busy, central and lined with beach clubs.
PositanoFornillo
A 10 to 15 minute cliff-path walk west of the main beach, and noticeably calmer, with a small free area at the far end.
PraianoMarina di Praia
A tiny pebble cove between the cliffs, with a free section, good snorkeling and boats out to Capri.
AmalfiSanta Croce
Reachable only by boat: shuttles from Amalfi’s marina run about €10 to €15 round trip. Rent a lounger and stay for lunch.
FuroreFiordo di Furore
A narrow fjord with a sliver of beach under a road bridge. More of a photo stop than a beach day, and reached by steps from the road.
MaioriMaiori
The longest sandy beach on the coast, and the easiest for families.
getting there
How to get to the Amalfi Coast
- Fly into NaplesNaples (NAP) is the closest airport. From Rome, high-speed trains reach Naples in about an hour and ten minutes, or Salerno in about an hour and a half.
- Easiest: a private transferA car from Naples airport to Positano takes about 80 to 100 minutes and costs roughly €110 to €160. Shared shuttles are cheaper, about €35 to €60 a person.
- Cheapest: bus, then busThe Curreri bus runs from the airport to Sorrento (about €10, 75 minutes), then the SITA bus continues along the coast to Positano (about €2.50, 50 to 70 minutes). Allow 2.5 to 3.5 hours, and buy SITA tickets before boarding, at a tabacchi or kiosk.
- Most scenic: the ferryFrom April to October, NLG and Alilauro sail from Naples’ Molo Beverello to Positano in about 1 to 2 hours. From Salerno, Travelmar and others run to Amalfi and Positano (about 75 minutes to Positano). Bad weather can cancel sailings.
- Getting around once you are thereFerries and water taxis link Positano, Amalfi and the other towns from spring to fall. SITA buses run the coast road year-round but fill up in summer. Taxis and private drivers are pricey, but easy.
where to stay
Where to stay on the Amalfi Coast
know before you go
7 Amalfi Coast mistakes to avoid
- Going in July or August.Traffic, full buses, brutal heat and peak prices. Late April to June and September to mid-October are the sweet spots.
- Driving if you hate driving.It is narrow, busy and subject to odd-even plate rules on peak days. Ferries, buses or a scooter are easier.
- Not booking ferries ahead.Capri routes and summer weekends sell out. Buy online ahead and keep a bus backup in case the sea is rough.
- Buying bus tickets on board.You generally cannot buy SITA tickets on the bus. Get them at a tabacchi or kiosk first, and carry cash.
- Wearing the wrong shoes.Positano is stairs, and the Path of the Gods has cliff edges. Bring shoes with grip.
- Booking hotels late.For summer, book 6 to 9 months ahead. Many hotels and beach clubs close from November to March.
- Picking the empty restaurant.Wait for the busy one. Ours was worth the line.
a simple plan
4 days on the Amalfi Coast
Day 1Settle into Positano
Settle into Positano, an afternoon at Fornillo beach and a sunset dinner.
Day 2Ferry to Amalfi
Ferry to Amalfi, the cathedral early, a walk to Atrani, then the bus up to Ravello’s gardens.
Day 3The Path of the Gods in the morning
The Path of the Gods in the morning, from Bomerano down to Nocelle and Positano, then a lazy beach afternoon.
Day 4Capri by ferry
Capri by ferry, or a private boat along the coast with swim stops.
pack for the beach
What to pack
Shoes with grip for the stairs and trails, a swimsuit, and one nice outfit for dinner. Sun protection, a light layer for the ferry, and cash for buses and beach shuttles go in the day bag.
pair it with
More Italy
good to know
the Amalfi Coast questions
Can you drive the Amalfi Coast?
Yes, but it is challenging and not for everybody: the road is narrow, buses take the whole lane on bends, parking is scarce and expensive, and odd-even license plate rules apply on peak days. We loved it in late September in a tiny Fiat 500. If driving stresses you out, use ferries and buses.
What are the Amalfi Coast driving restrictions?
On designated dates (spring holidays, summer weekends and every day in August and September in 2026), non-resident cars may only use the SS163 from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. on days matching the last digit of their plate. Scooters and motorcycles are exempt. Check the current year’s ordinance before you go.
How do you get from Naples airport to Positano?
A private transfer takes about 80 to 100 minutes (roughly €110 to €160). The budget route is the Curreri bus to Sorrento and then the SITA bus to Positano, about 2.5 to 3.5 hours. From April to October you can also take a ferry from Naples port.
When is the best time to visit the Amalfi Coast?
Late April to June and September to mid-October: warm, with fewer crowds than July and August. Many hotels, beach clubs and ferry routes close from November to March.
Where should you stay on the Amalfi Coast?
Positano for the iconic view (we stayed four nights), Amalfi for the easiest ferries, Ravello for quiet, Praiano for sunsets and value, or Sorrento as a cheaper base with trains to Naples and Pompeii.
How many days do you need on the Amalfi Coast?
Three to five nights: one day for Amalfi and Ravello, one for the Path of the Gods, one for the beach, and one for Capri.
How hard is the Path of the Gods?
Moderate. It is about 6 to 8 km from Bomerano to Nocelle, 2 to 4 hours one way, mostly downhill or level, with some exposed cliff edges. Wear shoes with grip and bring water.
How do you pronounce Amalfi?
Amalfi, with the L before the F. Plenty of Americans say "Almafi", and we were even misspelling it in Google.
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