We flew north of the Arctic Circle in January for three bucket-list items: an igloo, the northern lights and dog sledding. We got a glass-walled cottage, no lights (a full moon and a snowstorm), and a husky tour we regret. Here is the route, with what worked, what we would skip, and the best of Lapland we did not get to. Five days covers Ivalo and Levi; seven adds Sámi culture in Inari and a snowmobile day; ten starts in Helsinki and takes the night train to the Arctic Circle.
Kittilä → Ivalo → Levi → KittiläKittilä → Ivalo → Inari → Levi → KittiläHelsinki → night train → Rovaniemi → Ivalo → Levi → Kittilä
day by day
The Finland itinerary
Helsinki1 night + the night train · saunas and the Santa Claus Express
DayLand in Helsinki and start with a sauna
Finland has about two million saunas for five and a half million people, and Helsinki is the place to learn the ritual: the public seaside saunas like Löyly and the Allas Sea Pool let you sweat, then plunge into the Baltic.
DayHelsinki, then the Santa Claus Express north
Spend the day around the harbor, the market hall and the design district, then board the overnight train to Rovaniemi, about 12 hours. Book a private sleeper cabin (one with a shower if you can); you wake up on the Arctic Circle.
Rovaniemi1 night · the Arctic Circle
DayRovaniemi and the Arctic Circle line
Santa Claus Village sits on the Arctic Circle about 8 km north of town, with a line on the ground you can step across. It is touristy, but fun once. The Arktikum museum in town is the best introduction to Arctic nature and Sámi culture. Pick up a rental car here for the drive north.
Ivalo2 nights3 nights3 nights · Aurora Village
DayFly into Kittilä, drive four hours north to Ivalo
We landed in Kittilä at 1:30 in early January and picked up a rental car. Ivalo is about four hours (150 miles) north on snowy roads. Sunset was listed at 2:18, but up here the glow lasts for hours, so you get twilight most of the way. Towns are far apart: stop at the first supermarket you see for dinner, snacks and a bathroom.
DayDrive north from Rovaniemi to Ivalo
About three and a half hours north on snowy roads; rental cars come with studded winter tires. Leave in daylight, fuel up whenever you can, and slow down for reindeer, which wander onto the road, especially at dusk.
DayA sauna day at Aurora Village
Aurora Village has a lakeside sauna where you jump into the frozen lake, a panorama sauna that looks up at the sky, and a private sauna and jacuzzi you can book for an extra fee. Book your slots ahead: they fill up, and we missed our first one. We went dog sledding this day and would not do it again. Our tour’s dogs were thin, shivering and injured, and we saw guides hit them.
DayInari and Sámi culture, then another aurora night
Drive 40 minutes north to Inari on its huge frozen lake for Siida, the Sámi museum and nature center: the best way to understand the Indigenous people of Lapland and life above the Arctic Circle. Back in Ivalo, a third night doubles your chances of clear skies. We saw no lights: a full moon and a snowstorm.
Levi2 nights3 nights3 nights · Finland’s viral ski resort
DayDrive to Levi and ski under the lights
Levi is about three and a half hours southwest of Ivalo. We rented an apartment in the village with a sauna in the bathroom and a drying closet for ski gear. Levi has night skiing, so the short daylight does not end your day.
DaySki Levi and hunt for the Instagram trees
A three-hour pass was €39, which covers the daylight (sunrise around 11:30, sunset around 2:30 in January). The slopes were nearly empty, with no lift lines, and it is a gentle hill: a better place to learn than the Alps. The famous snow-crusted trees are near the top, off the groomed runs. You can ride through them, then hike back out.
DayA snowmobile safari or ice fishing
Swap the slopes for the wilderness: a guided snowmobile safari across frozen lakes and fells, or ice fishing, where guides drill a hole, teach you to jig and cook your catch over a fire. Head back out for night skiing or the aurora after dark.
DayFly home from Kittilä
Kittilä airport is about 15 minutes from Levi, with flights to Helsinki in under two hours.
- Dog sledding. Huskies are not a traditional form of transport in Lapland; it is a tourism industry, and what we saw on our tour put us off for good.
- A third night in Ivalo, with Inari and the Siida Sámi museum.
- A snowmobile safari or ice-fishing day in Levi.
- A night in Helsinki and the Santa Claus Express night train.
- A night in Rovaniemi on the Arctic Circle.
- Inari and the Siida Sámi museum, plus a snowmobile or ice-fishing day.
before you go
Watch the whole trip
Itinerary sorted? The whole trip in one film: the four-hour Arctic drive, the “igloo”, reindeer for dinner, the saunas and Levi’s Instagram vs reality.
the route
Route and winter-driving tips
Rovaniemi to Ivalo is about three and a half hours, Ivalo to Inari 40 minutes, Ivalo to Levi about three and a half hours, and Levi to Kittilä airport 15 minutes. On the 5 and 7-day trips, start and end at Kittilä.
more lapland
More of Lapland we would add
We did not film these, but they are some of the best things to do in Finnish Lapland in winter.
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Where to stay
pack for finland
What we packed
Base layers, a down jacket, insulated boots, mittens and a swimsuit for the saunas. Wear your snow boots on the plane: we landed in a blizzard in sneakers. Our gear is from Tripped, our own travel brand.
watch the trip
Every stop on video
good to know
Finland trip questions
How many days do you need in Finnish Lapland?
Five days covers two bases: Ivalo for the northern lights and saunas, and Levi for skiing. Seven adds Inari’s Sámi museum and a snowmobile or ice-fishing day. Ten starts with Helsinki and the night train to Rovaniemi.
When is the best time to visit Lapland?
February and March: deep snow, northern lights, and far more daylight than December or January. We went in early January and had about three hours of sun a day.
When can you see the northern lights in Finland?
From roughly September to March on clear, dark nights, most often between 9 p.m. and 1 a.m. Avoid the full moon and check the cloud forecast.
How cold is Lapland in winter?
January averages around -14°C, with cold snaps far below that. The air is dry, so good layers, insulated boots and mittens make it comfortable.
Which airport should you fly into for Lapland?
Kittilä for Levi (about 15 minutes away), Ivalo for Saariselkä and Inari, or Rovaniemi for the Arctic Circle. All have flights from Helsinki, and Rovaniemi also has the overnight train.
Is the Aurora Village glass igloo worth it?
It is really a cottage with a big glass window facing the sky, about $500 a night with breakfast and dinner included. It is worth it on a clear, dark night. With a full moon and snow, we saw no northern lights.
Is Levi ski resort worth it?
For empty slopes, no lift lines and easy terrain, yes. A three-hour pass was €39. It is a small hill, and the viral snow-covered trees are off the groomed runs, so you hike back out.
Should you go dog sledding in Lapland?
We would not. Huskies are not a traditional form of transport there; it is a tourism industry. On our tour, the dogs were thin, shivering and injured, and we saw guides hit them. Read our full story before you book.
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More for your Finland trip
Budget, when to go and every video we filmed in Finland.
Finland travel guideIs dog sledding ethical?How we plan every trip
